Jumped on the Lonely Planet trail out of Bogotá and it led us to Villa de Leyva and Barichara.
Leyva and Barichara are two Spanish Colonial pueblos, both under 10,000 people, that offer everything from street vendor staples to gourmet cuisine, open air hostels to boutique hotels, and city center plazas that encourage one to slow down and breathe in the moment. Oh, and there's local chocolate. Everywhere. Not even kidding.
Plaza Mayor en Villa de Leyva
I read this article on Leyva after we visited. It sums things up nicely and quite accurately.
Are these two towns geared towards tourism? Absolutely. But the Colombian tourists far outnumber the international travelers, and they mostly go home after the weekend. Come Monday the streets are quiet, and that sleepy town feel returns. But really, even when the streets are full with weekenders, the town never loses its charm. And to see families traveling around, enjoying their country's treasures - it's fun to watch. Uplifting.
In Leyva we scored a sweet private room in a hostel called Renacer just out of town. It cost $90,000 Colombian per night ($30 US). A bit of a splurge, but well worth it.
Renacer Hostel - Leyva
A nearby hike took us up to a monument known as Santo that overlooked the village. So steep! Brian would power ahead as I pretended to stop and enjoy the view, while really I checked to ensure my lungs were not actually collapsing. About that time, I got passed by not one, but two local grandmas AND a local JOGGER. Seriously? You are jogging? All three were full of well wishes and words of encouragement, of course! And it worked. Funny how my second wind kicks in as soon as I get passed by a lady with a cane.
The payoff was grand.
We arrived in Barichara with no real plan and nowhere in particular to go. We read about a hostel on the edge of town where, "The birds representing all colors of the rainbow appear like clockwork every morning." Who wouldn't want to wake up to colors of the rainbow? We asked a few vendors for directions, and tried to ignore their hesitation as they responded with hand gestures that pointed further down the road. The guidebook ensured us of a 10 minute walk. 20 minutes later - still no hostel. No worries, we'll ask again. "Sí! Just ahead! Derecho!", as the man gestured "just around the corner" with his hands. We forged ahead to find what was around the corner - the steepest, longest, steepest (it deserves steep twice) driveway I had yet to encounter. And just like that, I put my backpack down on the side of the road. Brian, determined not to let a hill stop him from seeing what's on the other side, guzzled the last of his water, kissed me farewell, and marched onward. Surely, the answer to our search rests beyond that hill. As I waited in the sun on that lonely road, contemplating plan B (there's gotta be a taxi coming by soon - Brian will figure it out - right?), he returned. There was indeed no hostel over the hill. So we retraced our steps back to town, hot, tired, and a bit perplexed. Passing by two backpackers, we asked about our infamous hostel. No, they hadn't heard of it, but instead told us of a place just on the edge of town (again?) that sat atop a hill (here we go), complete with outdoor showers and a porch with hammocks. Success! No rainbow colored birds, but the place did have a cat. It was perfect.
Artepolis Hotel - $19.00/night
The town of Barichara is an oasis.
Half the city is surrounded by the Camino Real, a trail that was used by the indigenous tribes in that area, and later restored during the 19th century. The trail eventually leads to the very small village of Guane, almost four miles mostly down hill (yes!).
Not to fear, there's a bus that will bring you back to Barichara via the main road. Brian braved the uphill trek. He forever impresses me. On the way down we shared the trail with few people: a goat herder and a farmer. A variety of birds and sporadic cattle were our only other travel companions. Peaceful.
You get wet! ☔️
Wax palms can reach 60 meters. 🌴
